How to Work Ribbing

Ribbing is the stretchy, springy band of vertical stripes that hugs brims, cuffs and edges and pulls them in snug — knit two, purl two in knitting, or back-loop stitches in crochet that fake the same lovely ridges. It’s the deep ribbed brim on our drop bear beanie, the black ribbed brim under the road sign, and the thick back-loop panels that keep our tea cozies insulating so well.

Step by step

Knitted rib is just the two basic stitches taking turns: knit 2, purl 2, repeated across the row and up the band. The knit stitches stand proudly forward, the purl stitches sink shyly back, and that push-and-pull is exactly what makes rib springy.
Bring the yarn to the front of the work for the purls and take it back for the knits — moving the yarn between every pair is the whole rhythm of ribbing, and forgetting the move is how mysterious extra stitches (accidental yarn overs) sneak in.
Learn to read your knitting instead of counting forever: knit the stitches that show a little V facing you and purl the ones showing a bump. Once you can read it, ribbing becomes television knitting of the very highest order.
Work rib on needles a touch smaller than the main work if your pattern allows — rib knitted on smaller needles sits tighter and keeps its bounce for years longer. Our patterns always say when they’ve already allowed for the size change.
Expect rib to pull in: a piece of 2×2 rib relaxes to about two-thirds of its stretched width. That’s the point — the brim has to hug the head — but it does mean rib always looks suspiciously narrow on the needles compared with how it fits on the wearer.
Crochet ribbing works sideways instead: single or half double crochet into the back loop only, row after row, leaves the unworked front loops standing up as ridges. Our tea cosy bodies are half double crochet worked through the back loop — a thick, cosy rib that stretches itself around the pot.
A crocheted ribbed band is usually worked as a strip first and then slip-stitched or sewn onto the main piece — napkin rings and cuffs both use the strip method — so check which way your pattern runs the ridges, because the stretch has to travel around the wrist, neck or napkin, not along it.
Keep ribbing tension snug and even. Loose rib is just wavy stocking stitch with ambitions; and if your purls come out baggier than your knits, give the yarn one tiny extra tug after each purl stitch to even things up.
Judge the fit only once the whole piece is finished: rib keeps stretching and recovering for the life of the garment, so a brim or cuff that feels firm on first wearing is the one that still fits beautifully in five years’ time.

Patterns that use it

Drop Bear Beanie Knitting Pattern | Funny Aussie Chunky Hat with Fangs and Bear Ears, Child & Adult Sizes PDF

Kangaroo Road Sign Beanie & Scarf Knitting Pattern | Aussie Intarsia Set, 3 Sizes, DK PDF

Aussie Christmas Tea Cozy Crochet Patterns | Pudding, Santa & Gumnut Wreath | 3 Cozies in 2 Sizes PDF

Gumleaf Sunset Women's Sock Set Knitting Pattern | Thick Knee-High Socks, Gloves & Beanie PDF

Friendsgiving Coasters & Napkin Rings Crochet Vol 2 | Pumpkin Coasters, Acorn Rings, Mini Pumpkin PDF

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Common mistakes

Forgetting to move the yarn — to the front for the purls, to the back for the knits. The yarn crosses over the needle instead and leaves an accidental yarn over, which is how mysterious extra stitches sneak into a rib band.
Losing the rhythm after a yarn move and knitting a stitch that should have been purled. One wrong stitch breaks the column and shows as a scar in the stripe; read the fabric instead — knit the Vs that face you, purl the bumps.
Judging the width on the needles and panicking that the brim is far too small. Rib relaxes to about two-thirds of its stretched width and is meant to look suspiciously narrow in the making — judge the fit on the wearer, at the end.

Tina’s tips

If your purls come out baggier than your knits, give the yarn one tiny extra tug after each purl stitch. It evens the columns up beautifully, and after a few rows your hands do it without asking.
Where your pattern allows it, work the rib on needles a touch smaller than the main work. Rib knitted on smaller needles sits tighter and keeps its bounce for years longer — a firm brim on first wearing is the one still fitting beautifully in five years.